travel bite: Bagan, Burma

YOU can smell the earth awakening from its sleep, unfurling before the coming sun. Early morning buzzing sounds begin, birds caw and the echoes of crickets and squeaks of squirrels can be heard. A gentle dawn chorus of tweeting follows.

Young dogs play in the dry earth of fields. A horse, anchored to its cart, stomps hooves against the dirt, snorting out a mist of warm damp exhalation.

The odd tractor putters in the distance.

The sun rises.

Shwezigon Pagoda

Ananda Temple

Stay at: Winner Guesthouse

Eat at: Yar Pyi Vegetarian Restaurant and Weather Spoon’s

Delicious Burmese food served by warm and chatty family members, to be found on the path leading up to Ananda Temple.

If in need of some home comforts head straight to Weather Spoon’s for good versions of Western foods: this fish finger sandwich featured fresh fish in a lemon and black pepper beer batter with a side salad of cucumber, tomato, carrot and black olives lightly coated in a homemade mayonnaise dressing with olive oil and oregano. Their simple pasta arrabiatta was tasty too.

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